The Waiters’ Race Returns to Paris

After a 13-year break, the city of Paris has revived the famous Waiters’ Race — a legendary celebration of café culture once known as the Course des Garçons de Cafés. On September 21, 2025, 180 waitresses and waiters from Parisian cafés took part in this spirited event, cheered on by enthusiastic crowds. The winner covered the 3 km route through Le Marais and along the Seine in 18 minutes and 29 seconds — without spilling a drop.

Each participant carried a tray with a cup of coffee, a glass of water, and a croissant. Running was strictly forbidden; only walking was allowed. The rule humorously underlined a simple truth — a Parisian waiter walks an average of 17 km a day.

The Waiters’ Race has deep roots. Born in the 1920s, it became a hugely popular spectacle across France, highlighting the pride and skill of the café profession. Alcohol brands, dominant in those days, sponsored the competitions for visibility. The first edition took place just after World War I, featuring an 8 km route across both banks of the Seine. Contestants ran in full uniform, balancing a tray with an open bottle and three empty glasses.

“By the end, I had trained so much with my tray that I barely felt it anymore,” recalls Mac Fabre, former owner of Les Vieilles Vignes in the 7th arrondissement and winner of the 2000 race.

Beyond the spectacle, the event once symbolized the art of French service — a craft mastered with rigor and elegance. Until the 1970s, waiters carried bottles and glasses to the table, pouring drinks before customers’ eyes. A single order with ten different aperitifs demanded remarkable dexterity and strength to navigate the crowded terraces.

Today, 99% of Paris cafés pour drinks at the bar. Only a few prestigious institutions, such as Les Deux Magots, keep the old-school tradition alive. Meanwhile, some cheekier spots don’t hesitate to swap champagne for sparkling wine — or pass off Sauvignon as Chardonnay!