Brasserie “Les Grandes Marches” is right by the Opéra Bastille and has been through a seriously befitting update since the Joulie family took over in the summer of 2012.
The lounge spirit is out and the hallmark composed class and lighting that define great brasseries is back. The Art Deco influence is undeniable and the spirit intertwines with the close Opera and its “grandes marches” (great steps) that gave this establishment its name. And it implements good ideas, as the glass booth where the oyster seller dispenses his wares both indoors and outdoors the brasserie.This eye-catching feature has become one of the place’s highlights. The table d’hôtes opposite the bar, where patrons eat practically standing up, is another original touch.
Once you step into Les Grandes Marches, the word that comes to mind is serenity. You leave the Bastille’s hustle and bustle behind, loosen up and take your time to enjoy life on the handsome, firm, fleshy benches and watch the waiters’ ballet among the curving and broken lines around the room – starting with the curving grand staircase that give the feeling to cruise on a transatlantic liner.
The back wall is brimming with La Callas portraits but there is nonetheless room for a slightly offbeat picture of Gainsbourg aping Dali – and a few more offbeat touches upstairs, such as Yvon Cochery’s “L’Aztèque” or a graffiti on canvas à la Keith Haring by Yvan Sibéra.
If you feel yourself an epicurean soul and if you come from attending Don Giovanni, you can shamelessly take your pick from the comely line-up of Pascal Magné Fine de Claire oysters or Poget-Papin Utah-Beach fleshy oysters. The other iodine-charged options from the Chef with a penchant for oceans include the crab meat remoulade, the wild king prawns and cod steak with a shellfish fumet.
But, if you want to get back on your feed after Nabucco, music-loving meat-eaters will choose the Normandy breed rib-eye steak (300 g…) There is the famous andouillette tripe sausage from Troyes classified 5A. You can be sure of one thing:its a generous place.
